Which do you like?

  • Faceplate lined up with top

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • Faceplate mirrored with top

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Faceplate straight up

    Votes: 2 66.7%

  • Total voters
    3

BlueX

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I might repeat myself, but it is a real pleasure following this process in all its steps!

One side you can't see anything the other is a fine line.
I'm sure you're the only one noticing that. There's so much else to look at for the rest of us.
 

Geeze

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Now sanded to 220. I decided to mask the boundaries rather than wade through the turd floater occurring in my neck of the woods to go and get art grade brushes.

gENpcKv.jpg


First rub of the sapphire blue. It looks much more better when it's lacquered.

QwFZ1cK.jpg


1VW0bhv.jpg


Russ
 

Marcomel79

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You are a true artist Russ. Just stunning. Always look forward to your threads
 

Geeze

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Sapphire blue rub #2.

Nf1Aj3U.jpg


N48DQHZ.jpg


I decided to lacquer the shell to keep me from tracking blue on the non blue parts as I fit the faceplate.

BQUPBIL.jpg


9SUzbiz.jpg


Last night I also discovered FUBAR #2 - I wanted the top angled jack to be centered on the front faceplate jack. A great plan that was foiled by centering on the rear end of the top jack not the front end. Moving the front jack to the left to center on the top jack is an obvious solution except Marshall's plexi faceplates are 17" wide - at least on the 50 watt and I'm pretty sure they used the same plate on the 100 watt width heads. This would expose at least a 1/4" of steel chassis something I'm not willing to do at this point.

So for this iteration the jacks aren't going to line up unless I do an artful fix and angle the front jack the other way. Hhhmmm...

Russ
 

BlueX

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Last night I also discovered FUBAR #2 - I wanted the top angled jack to be centered on the front faceplate jack. A great plan that was foiled by centering on the rear end of the top jack not the front end. Moving the front jack to the left to center on the top jack is an obvious solution except Marshall's plexi faceplates are 17" wide - at least on the 50 watt and I'm pretty sure they used the same plate on the 100 watt width heads. This would expose at least a 1/4" of steel chassis something I'm not willing to do at this point.

So for this iteration the jacks aren't going to line up unless I do an artful fix and angle the front jack the other way. Hhhmmm...
Would off-set design be possible?
 

Geeze

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After contemplating options I decided to use the centered jack face plate as the shell wouldn't work with as much offset as I needed and I would have needed to splice more wood on to the faceplate to make that work - neither appealing options.

orvpA1w.jpg


h8sQ0wA.jpg


Tomorrow the control notch is cut, rough sanded and logo time.

Russ
 

BlueX

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I have mixed reactions. Sorry about your disappointment, but at the same time looking forward to see this waving flag being realized.
 


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