The Official Marshall Studio Vintage Thread Sv20h

[marshallmellowed]

Not a fan of the dude, but have to agree that, IMO, neither of the Studio amps are worth a $1900 price tag. I can't complain, as I paid around $850 for each of mine (new, open box), back before prices got ridiculous. Having had them for over a year, I'd say that's about all I'd be willing to pay today. Just my opinion, of course.

 

[Moony]

neither of the Studio amps are worth a $1900 price tag

I agree and I'm sorry for all the Marshall fans in the US.
The combos are 829 Euros here in Germany...

 

[Tonneback]

The US prices are ridiculous. I paid about $900 for my SV20H this summer. I'm in Sweden

 

[Gene Ballzz]

I know some guys here really hate Lyle aka Psionic Audio for sharing his honest opinion on the Origin 20.
If you are one of those people just ignore this post and don't watch the video.

To all others - here's his take on the SV20:

To me, my SV20 sounds a little better than Lyle's example, but I definitely agree with his assessment of build and component quality, along with being drastically overpriced! Of course my SV20 is a head model, plugged into either a '72, 1960B with OEM Greenbacks or a stock 1965B and I've done a little tube rolling in the preamp. That 1960B brings out the best of any amp plugged into it! I've been poundin' it for nearly 50 years, since almost new. From what I understand, the '72 G12M/25 watt/75Hz speakers are identical to the '71 Pre-Rolas, but simply with the new "Rola" stickers applied.

On a different note, I watched all four of Lyle's vids one the Origin20 and in addition to the technical issues, I'd have to say I totally agree with his take on the tone and response of the Origin20. Had one for 29 days and the sounds could only get "Close, but no ceegar!"

Lyle pretty much tells it like it is and sugar coats nothing, in all his vids I've watched. He certainly knows how to put an amp through its paces, in search of its "sweet spots!"

JMHO,
Gene

 

[colchar]

Not a fan of the dude, but have to agree that, IMO, neither of the Studio amps are worth a $1900 price tag. I can't complain, as I paid around $850 for each of mine (new, open box), back before prices got ridiculous. Having had them for over a year, I'd say that's about all I'd be willing to pay today. Just my opinion, of course.

I paid $1299CDN ($959US) for mine used, but in absolutely mint condition. I wouldn't pay more than that. It is a really good amp, but I still like my Orange AD30 more.

They are now $2149CDN ($1586US) new and there is no way in hell that I would pay that price.

 

[chocol8]

I know some guys here really hate Lyle aka Psionic Audio for sharing his honest opinion on the Origin 20.
If you are one of those people just ignore this post and don't watch the video.

To all others - here's his take on the SV20:

I can't disagree with Lyle's assessment. That amp is on par with a $700 Blues Jr, except it is priced $1200 more in the US.

An amp that sells for $1000 or more should have better pots and jacks at an absolute minimum. It doesn't add that much cost to the construction, but those are high wear items that are prone to failure. I get it on the sub $800 amps where you have to cut every corner you can to make a price point, but on a $1,900 10" combo it's inexcusable.

For the most part, at $1000+ I expect pots, jacks and tube sockets to not be PCB mounted, and to be decent quality components. By $1200 it's not negotiable, at $1900 I think they are smoking crack.

 

[Moony]

Of course my SV20 is a head model, plugged into either a '72, 1960B with OEM Greenbacks or a stock 1965B and I've done a little tube rolling in the preamp. That 1960B brings out the best of any amp plugged into it!

A good cab and set of speakers will certainly bring out the best of any amp!
I know some guys who are never happy with the sound of their amps, they are constantly switching amps but never try any other cab/speakers...

That amp is on par with a $700 Blues Jr

That's a bit harsh.
He's done videos about the Blues Junior too - lots of design flaws (bad filter caps, resistors burning the pcb etc.) which Fender obviously don't want to fix.
Hopefully the SV20 holds up a bit better.
Regarding the pots, if they are the same quality like used on the JVM series, they are ok. I've bought a lot of JVMs and never had a problem with a bad pot so far.
Of course there's always room for improvements.
The US price is just way too high - but around 800 Euros like it is in the EU is perfectly fine for the Marshall Studio amps.

 

[chocol8]

That's a bit harsh. .

Not a comment on the circuit design or tone, but when comparing the component quality and build quality, and think it is a fair statement unfortunately. Marshall made a budget amp to sell at budget prices in Europe which is fine. Unfortunately they are charging more than double for it in the US which takes it well out of the budget category price wise, but with no increase in quality.

 

[Moony]

Unfortunately they are charging more than double for it in the US

Yes, that's a big bummer and I really don't understand what Marshall's distribution is thinking... maybe they sell enough amps even at these higher prices and don't want to sell even more because they already seem to have a few problems to keep up with the production (scarcity of components, tubes, transformers...).
Imagine they were $800 in the US these days, I think they would sell like hotcakes!

 

[ken361]

tonymckenziecom you tuber though the JJ jr build quality was terrible

 

[Moony]

tonymckenziecom you tuber though the JJ jr build quality was terrible

I've seen that too.
And also heard a comment from Lyle about that, he's not sure if Tony has enough technical knowledge to judge these kinds of things.
But Tony obviously found some flaws in his Friedman JJ jr that shouldn't happen.
Overall I think Dave's amps are well built and he offers an amazing customer support afaik.

And I like the Tone Talk vids!

 

[Dogs of Doom]

I'm currently looking to get one finally...

I thought I've read about using a variac w/ one, but can't find it anywhere. I've looked all over the net, as well, like, here, TGP, etc...

I'm just not sure how that would work, because I believe that, the design is already starving the power tubes, limiting the power.

My thought is to get the SV20, a variac, & an attenuator, all in 1 swoop, so I can get it dialed in right away. I'm thinking about getting a JohnH attenuator, & there's a guy selling a variac locally, so, I'll hit him up...

 

[Moony]

I believe that, the design is already starving the power tubes

Yes they are running very cold around 50% (plate voltage around 260V):

I'm thinking about getting a JohnH attenuator

I think an attenuator is the way to go with this amp.

 

[marshallmellowed]

I'm currently looking to get one finally...

I thought I've read about using a variac w/ one, but can't find it anywhere. I've looked all over the net, as well, like, here, TGP, etc...

I'm just not sure how that would work, because I believe that, the design is already starving the power tubes, limiting the power.

My thought is to get the SV20, a variac, & an attenuator, all in 1 swoop, so I can get it dialed in right away. I'm thinking about getting a JohnH attenuator, & there's a guy selling a variac locally, so, I'll hit him up...

The Studio amps are already starved for voltage, so what would you be hoping to accomplish with a variac? Just curious

 

[Dogs of Doom]

The Studio amps are already starved for voltage, so what would you be hoping to accomplish with a variac? Just curious

as I noted, I didn't know how they got the final result in lowering the output, from 50, to 20 watts, but, had figured that they did some sort of starvation, in the process...

This is why I'm asking about/starting the convo on this...

Has anyone also tried lowering the voltage/current to the amp, more than what's already in the design? or would that be catastrophic?

I know that the tubes need a minimum to run the heaters & function properly.

Hooking up a 50 watt attenuator is a no brainer.

The cab, I'm looking at is a 2061cx (2z12) w/ a pair of H30 speakers...

The guy has them listed together...

I'd also have to figure out what other tubes it plays well w/. I have 6550s, 6l6s, etc.

 

[marshallmellowed]

as I noted, I didn't know how they got the final result in lowering the output, from 50, to 20 watts, but, had figured that they did some sort of starvation, in the process...

This is why I'm asking about/starting the convo on this...

Has anyone also tried lowering the voltage/current to the amp, more than what's already in the design? or would that be catastrophic?

I know that the tubes need a minimum to run the heaters & function properly.

Hooking up a 50 watt attenuator is a no brainer.

The cab, I'm looking at is a 2061cx (2z12) w/ a pair of H30 speakers...

The guy has them listed together...

I'd also have to figure out what other tubes it plays well w/. I have 6550s, 6l6s, etc.

I don't think dropping the line voltage slightly would hurt anything, but I also don't think it would sound very good. When I read through Studio amp user posts, I see a lot of users commenting that they prefer the 20w mode over the 5w mode, as it sounds better. This is my observation also, same as I think a 50w amp sounds better than a 20w, and a 100w better than a 50w. I do think a small attenuator or a re-amper are good options for the SV. With the SV, I prefer using a Bad Cat Unleash (re-amping unit) over an attenuator., as the low voltages in the SV already suck a little tone (when compared to a 50 or 100w amp). Just my take on it. Good looking rig in the photo.

 

[Dogs of Doom]

I don't think dropping the line voltage slightly would hurt anything, but I also don't think it would sound very good.

yeah, I'm not sure, if it will do anything worthwhile, or not...

When I read through Studio amp user posts, I see a lot of users commenting that they prefer the 20w mode over the 5w mode, as it sounds better. This is my observation also, same as I think a 50w amp sounds better than a 20w, and a 100w better than a 50w.

I agree, w/ amp's I've tried low power, or VPR (TSL). I've always liked the full power turned down, better than using the feature, although, my amp's have been all MV amp's. I also have liked 100 watters over 50 watters & smaller, etc.

I like the SV20 though...

I do think a small attenuator or a re-amper are good options for the SV. With the SV, I prefer using a Bad Cat Unleash (re-amping unit) over an attenuator., as the low voltages in the SV already suck a little tone (when compared to a 50 or 100w amp). Just my take on it.

Yeah, I'm thinking on building a JohnH attenuator finally. Haven't had a real reason to, until I get one of these. I have my Ampeg PF-50T, that has a master, that, could benefit from more power amp juice w/ attenuation, but, that might push the limits on a 50 watt attenuator, being bass...

I think @Gene Ballzz runs one w/ an SV20 & is happy w/ it...

Yeah, it's a nice rig. I might swap the H30 (75hz) out for the (55hz), but, I'll wait & see how I like it w/ them 1st... I have 1 55hz, so, I'd have to find another, to put a pair in there. Or, I might mix/match... ...

 

[Gene Ballzz]

I'm currently looking to get one finally... I thought I've read about using a variac w/ one, but can't find it anywhere. I've looked all over the net, as well, like, here, TGP, etc... I'm just not sure how that would work, because I believe that, the design is already starving the power tubes, limiting the power. My thought is to get the SV20, a variac, & an attenuator, all in 1 swoop, so I can get it dialed in right away. I'm thinking about getting a JohnH attenuator, & there's a guy selling a variac locally, so, I'll hit him up...

as I noted, I didn't know how they got the final result in lowering the output, from 50, to 20 watts, but, had figured that they did some sort of starvation, in the process... This is why I'm asking about/starting the convo on this... Has anyone also tried lowering the voltage/current to the amp, more than what's already in the design? or would that be catastrophic? I know that the tubes need a minimum to run the heaters & function properly. Hooking up a 50 watt attenuator is a no brainer. The cab, I'm looking at is a 2061cx (2z12) w/ a pair of H30 speakers... The guy has them listed together...

I'd also have to figure out what other tubes it plays well w/. I have 6550s, 6l6s, etc.

I'm currently looking to get one finally... I thought I've read about using a variac w/ one, but can't find it anywhere. I've looked all over the net, as well, like, here, TGP, etc... I'm just not sure how that would work, because I believe that, the design is already starving the power tubes, limiting the power. My thought is to get the SV20, a variac, & an attenuator, all in 1 swoop, so I can get it dialed in right away. I'm thinking about getting a JohnH attenuator, & there's a guy selling a variac locally, so, I'll hit him up...

as I noted, I didn't know how they got the final result in lowering the output, from 50, to 20 watts, but, had figured that they did some sort of starvation, in the process... This is why I'm asking about/starting the convo on this... Has anyone also tried lowering the voltage/current to the amp, more than what's already in the design? or would that be catastrophic? I know that the tubes need a minimum to run the heaters & function properly. Hooking up a 50 watt attenuator is a no brainer. The cab, I'm looking at is a 2061cx (2z12) w/ a pair of H30 speakers... The guy has them listed together...

I'd also have to figure out what other tubes it plays well w/. I have 6550s, 6l6s, etc.

That cabinet makes for a reallly sexy mini stack! I haven't yet, but plan to try a pair of 6V6s in there. They were great in my DSL20, also cathode bias, so no adjustment needed. And as you mentioned above, the SV20 works fantastic with the JohnH M2. No loss of any toanl nuances or subtlties and all feel and dynamics are well preserved.

If you need any assistance with the JohnH build, I'd be glad to help, as I've built several so far, for my multiple amps. We could even privately discuss getting one put together for you, but we can't talk about that here! Send me a PM if you like, with contact info.

Enjoy,
Gene

 

[Nge]

Hi! This is my first message so greetings to everyone

I have a SV20 and wanted to make a stereo set. I haven’t found anything in these pages so I wanted to share my experience.

I have two cabs loaded with greenbacks so I just needed another head (that’s what I thought). I bought a SC20 thinking that the power section would be almost the same as they are with their big brothers (2203x and 1959spl). The only difference would be in the presence knob that has different values and an extra cap. The jube loop is located before EQ, so it was discarted.

The chain was: guitar, HX Effects (4CM) + pedals, input of SV20, SV20 send, HX Effects, and stereo output of HXFx to both returns of SV and SC20.

First of all, I had ground loop problems that I partially fixed with an isolator transformer between the HX and the SC20 return (Lehle ISO).

Second problem: the JCM800 is louder. I had to compensate for this with a DIY pot (like a JHS little black box).

Third problem: there is a difference in tone between both amps. I was always comparing one side to the other and touching the DIY knob since I coudn’t feel my self in the middle of the stereo field, hard to explain.

The last problem has no cure. I could live with it, but I just didn’t want to have this after expending all this money and effort.

So I returned the 800 and got another SV20.

Absolutely gorgeous stereo image and feeling. It would have been wonderful to have a different head (the 800 is also marvellous, but prefer the plexi) but actually what I was looking for was a stereo set.

I‘m still waiting for another isolator transformer since I still have a ground loop in the first head. But it’s almost done.

If someone is thinking about doing something similar, I think it’s really worth it.

 

[MiniPlex]

Just bought an SV20 head and matching cab! Will post update soon. Really jazzed with this combo.