The Official Marshall Origin 20 Thread...

steveb63

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Mine's about 2 yrs. old - looks like new.
But it sits in my temp & humidity controlled living room in western PA.
Do you live in a salt air environment near the coast, or haul it around to gigs/ jams?
In all fairness mine was at our rehearsal space.

An un- air conditioned mobile home turned into a studio, in Phoenix, Az Lol

The only cooling we have is a swamp cooler, that turns a 100 degree room into a 100 degree room with 80% humidity ha!

I'm sure that's why mine is a little "cloudy" in some spots.
 

Sputnick60

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Mine's about 2 yrs. old - looks like new.
But it sits in my temp & humidity controlled living room in western PA.
Do you live in a salt air environment near the coast, or haul it around to gigs/ jams?
Mine stays at home next to the sofa all the time. It hasn't moved since I bought it. It sometimes gets dusted with a dry cloth. I'm in a coastal city ( like 90% of the world population) but there's no surf around that would blow salt into the air. The car sits outside and doesn't suffer like the indoor amp.
 

Ufoscorpion

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Mine stays at home next to the sofa all the time. It hasn't moved since I bought it. It sometimes gets dusted with a dry cloth. I'm in a coastal city ( like 90% of the world population) but there's no surf around that would blow salt into the air. The car sits outside and doesn't suffer like the indoor amp.
Send it back it’s got a 5year warranty.
 

scozz

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And what exactly makes this obvious to you? I did play both amps. None of them sounds better than the other, just different, each one of them is perfect for slightly or not so slightly diffent things.

My point is that the only reason why the SC costs more is that it was assembled in the UK. It wasn't intentionally designed to sound better than the Origin.

Cheaper amps tend to be criticized more but it doesn’t mean that they necessarily don't sound good. I am pretty sure if the Origin would cost a 1000 dollars more many people would take it as gospel.

I remember I once saw a comparison of one of the classic and venerable Marshals, don't remember exactly which model, vs a Hiwatt. The Hiwatt was crazy shrill, way brighter than the Marshall and it virtually had no low end, but the crowd in the comments had been totally thrilled and everyone raved about how great it is, and how much better it is than the Marshall. Now, imagine what the reaction would have been if it was some sort of a budget amp?

I am saying this to emphasize the obvious truth that tone is subjective. Me? The older I get the cleaner amps I tend to prefer.

See the comparison below. I would never ever guessed that one of the amps costs 1000 dollars more. The SC is a nice amp, and it's a perfectly valid choice for those who are after that tone and so is the Origin for those who preferes what it delivers. I just totally disagree with those who say that the SC sounds better than the Origin. Nope. Just different.


Well, if you have played both amps and you still think what you think, then you’re just saying stupid $hit!
 

MarshallDog

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Well, if you have played both amps and you still think what you think, then you’re just saying stupid $hit!

Hes just saying there’s no real reason why one should cost more than the other, only difference is one is built in the Uk and they are both great sounding amps different in their on ways. Hell, if you think about it the O should cost more seeing as it has more parts and circuits, boost and the power scaling circuits!?
 

OriginOfTheSpecies

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I've been hankering for a vox, but an AC30 is way overkill for my needs and the little AC4's lack reverb or an fx loop to add one in.
I came across someone selling Yellow Jacket converters w/el84's for about the same price as just the valves (specifically the non-power reducing, <20w power, low profile version) so thought I'd experiment to see if the Origin could get a bit voxy.
Short answer is it makes it a bit voxy but still more like the origin than an AC. I'm using Celestion T75's which probably isn't helping.
 

jeffb

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I've been hankering for a vox, but an AC30 is way overkill for my needs and the little AC4's lack reverb or an fx loop to add one in.
I came across someone selling Yellow Jacket converters w/el84's for about the same price as just the valves (specifically the non-power reducing, <20w power, low profile version) so thought I'd experiment to see if the Origin could get a bit voxy.
Short answer is it makes it a bit voxy but still more like the origin than an AC. I'm using Celestion T75's which probably isn't helping.
Try the current AC10 if you are looking for an affordable, decent , Vox sound.
 

PaulHikeS2

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I've been hankering for a vox, but an AC30 is way overkill for my needs and the little AC4's lack reverb or an fx loop to add one in.
I came across someone selling Yellow Jacket converters w/el84's for about the same price as just the valves (specifically the non-power reducing, <20w power, low profile version) so thought I'd experiment to see if the Origin could get a bit voxy.
Short answer is it makes it a bit voxy but still more like the origin than an AC. I'm using Celestion T75's which probably isn't helping.
Yeah, I have an AC4 and it sounds nice, but you're right. But what about an AC15? Man, those are nice. I'm trying to decide between that and the Origin 20H.
 

OriginOfTheSpecies

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Yeah, I have an AC4 and it sounds nice, but you're right. But what about an AC15? Man, those are nice. I'm trying to decide between that and the Origin 20H.
Yeah I think longer term I'll get a real vox.
I'll keep the Origin though - it's so useful as a base. I use it as a straight up rock amp (when I can get loud), a clean platform for pedals, or an EL34 or whatever octals will fit power amp for preamps.
 

Sputnick60

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Good news on the rusty front panel. I wrote to Marshall with all the information (serial purchase date and dealer) and a response came from the local agent who arranged a replacement for the partial cost of shipping from the UK to New Zealand. $25 NZD (about $15 USD) I can pick it up at the store on the weekend.
 

Sputnick60

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Good news on the rusty front panel. I wrote to Marshall with all the information (serial purchase date and dealer) and a response came from the local agent who arranged a replacement for the partial cost of shipping from the UK to New Zealand. $25 NZD (about $15 USD) I can pick it up at the store on the weekend.
I installed the replacement parts. All the nuts unscrewed from the front except the lamp.
I tugged on the spade connector for the lamp but, as tiny as it is, it gripped with astonishing force. When it did let go my hand accelerated away and I tore the wire out of the crimp. This was fixed with a replacement crimp but on closer inspection I learned the error was unnecessary since white plastic back half can unscrew from the chrome bezel.
Here is a couple of photos for you…
EEA73957-DA08-4787-B61C-2E4923A65B42.jpeg 8B27F7EB-A256-4BF8-A42C-23AB9BD26148.jpeg
Nicholas
 

Xenrelic

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I've had few Origin 20H and 50H come my way and boy are those fun to mod into high gain monsters. You can do all sorts of cool things with them! The next one I do is going to be a 4 gain stage version, converting the cathode follower into an extra gain stage for even higher gain output that can still clean up nice. I might even have it, so that it switches out 2 gain stages for a nice foot switchable clean channel.
 

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Xenrelic

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If anyone wants a different color indicator lamp for their Origin, I've been making custom colors with the clear dome versions and I've also been getting good results just dyeing the stock amber dome versions and replacing the leds.

The recipe for the dye is 2 parts boiling water taken off the stove to cool for a minute, 1 part Acetone and Rit Synthetic Dye for plastics added in to taste. The more dye you add in, the stronger the color. The longer you leave the dome in the solution, the darker the color gets. It only needs about 1-10 minutes of dyeing to get cool results and you can experiment on pieces of clear plastic to get the routine down before you try dyeing the dome itself. The hot water opens the pores of the plastic, so it holds the dye in like a tattoo after it cools down.

The domes easily unscrew from the assembly as well as the led and you can replace the led with pretty much any color 5mm you want, as long as you add the appropriate dropping resistor for 12v operation on one leg of the led. The resistor value and size can be calculated based on how bright you want it with an led calculator online from 5mA-20mA in brightness.

You can buy the clear dome white led assembly straight from FILN for under $5. They also sell Red, Blue and Green IP67 12v 10mm versions if you don't want to hassle with dyeing your own dome and changing the led out.

HTB1iaWMbvvsK1Rjy0Fiq6zwtXXa7.jpg


TFQQ2841[1].JPG

Purchase link for the replacement FILN indicators: here
 

Xenrelic

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Didn't get a chance to do a proper demo, but here's my buddy Sam Pura dialing in a modded Origin head on the high gain mode while we were getting it ready to make a plugin version of it. I'll try to get a proper recorded demo with actual playing in the future.
 

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