NGD: ’50s Strat build kit

[BlueX]

Recently, I put together a Tele kit. That was fun, so let’s do it again. I have a US Fender HSS Strat, but been missing an SSS Strat. This kit will close that gap.

Wilkinson 50s Vintage-S Guitar Kit, from StewMac:

• 2-piece, center-joined Alder body, shaped, routed, and sanded
• Fretted Maple neck, with truss rod installed, 21 frets, 25,5” scale and 7,25” radius
• GraphTech nut
• CRL switch, and CTS 250k pot’s
• Wilkinson single-coils, and nickel-plated hardware (6-point tremolo)

Parts and components supposed to be '50s style (round string tree, for example)

Body and neck looks good, with smooth sanding, and components also look and feel good. I have no previous experience with Wilkinson electronics or hardware, but have heard some good things about them. Let’s see.

I will try to make this guitar as “period correct” as I can, and my plan is to paint the body in classic two-tone sunburst. If I don’t’ like how the wood looks when I’ve done the light center parts on front and back, I might reconsider the colour.

I’m not very fond of unboxing videos, but this kit was packed better than a new guitar so I share some pictures of that as well.

Also got some pieces of wood (Mahogany Sipo, Alder, Maple, and Ash), so I can practice grain filling, staining, etc., for this and future projects.

 

[tomsvintage]

Recently, I put together a Tele kit. That was fun, so let’s do it again. I have a US Fender HSS Strat, but been missing an SSS Strat. This kit will close that gap.

Wilkinson 50s Vintage-S Guitar Kit, from StewMac:

• 2-piece, center-joined Alder body, shaped, routed, and sanded
• Fretted Maple neck, with truss rod installed, 21 frets, 25,5” scale and 7,25” radius
• GraphTech nut
• CRL switch, and CTS 250k pot’s
• Wilkinson single-coils, and nickel-plated hardware (6-point tremolo)

Parts and components supposed to be '50s style (round string tree, for example)

Body and neck looks good, with smooth sanding, and components also look and feel good. I have no previous experience with Wilkinson electronics or hardware, but have heard some good things about them. Let’s see.

I will try to make this guitar as “period correct” as I can, and my plan is to paint the body in classic two-tone sunburst. If I don’t’ like how the wood looks when I’ve done the light center parts on front and back, I might reconsider the colour.

I’m not very fond of unboxing videos, but this kit was packed better than a new guitar so I share some pictures of that as well.

Also got some pieces of wood (Mahogany Sipo, Alder, Maple, and Ash), so I can practice grain filling, staining, etc., for this and future projects.

View attachment 99293 View attachment 99294 View attachment 99295 View attachment 99296 View attachment 99297 View attachment 99298

Looks like a nice kit !! Here are 2 of my 50's style partscasters for comparison and ideas

The Sunburst is my version of a 55 hardtail with a Fender bridge , Mighty Mite neck , round string tree , body from CL ($25) and BG S90 pickups ~ https://www.bgpickups.net/

I would love to have a set of repro 54 Bakelite style small skirt "tall boy" knobs with a football switch tip but have yet to find any at a reasonable price https://www.rebelrelic.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_46_77&product_id=56

The Blonde is my version of a Mary Kaye with Fender gold hardware and Fender pickups

Good luck with your build. I'll look forward to seeing the progress

 

[fitz]

Looks like a nice kit.
That might be some beautiful wood grain on the body - please don't paint it!
Wipe with a damp cloth to see the grain pop.
Best of luck!

 

[Kinkless Tetrode]

For alder that is some nice looking grain. You should certainly go with a transparent finish of some sort.

Alder usually doesn't need grain filler and is an order of magnitude easier to get a nice finish on than ash or mahogany.

The Wilkinson 6 point trem is a quality unit. It has the vintage correct bent steel saddles. The block is solid 1018 cold rolled mild steel and if you look at the block you will see the string holes are drilled unconventionally as far as depth and location. It stays in tune remarkably well with a good nut, and a roller or no string tree. It is astonishing how well it can stay in tune. It also sounds good.

A near deal breaker for me would be the 7.5" radius, but that's me.

 

[BlueX]

The Sunburst

The blonde

Two beautiful Strats, and thanks for the links!

That might be some beautiful wood grain on the body - please don't paint it!

For alder that is some nice looking grain. You should certainly go with a transparent finish of some sort.

Thanks! Looked closer at the body before going to bed, and yes, the first attempt will be translucent. Maybe sunburst with narrow black sides, or thin white blond. Decisions, decisions.

 

[BlueX]

The Sunburst is my version of a 55 hardtail with a Fender bridge , Mighty Mite neck , round string tree , body from CL ($25) and BG S90 pickups

@tomsvintage : Did you finish the body yourself? If so, how did you do the light middle part? The tone of that part is very nice.

My plan is to use nitrocellulose paint. Recommendations from Northwest Guitar in the UK is to use their Tobacco Brown in thin layers to get the right tone for the light middle part of a two-tone sunburst. Their Vintage Amber is meant to get vintage look on maple necks.

Also your guitar has the same width on the black shading as I want (and that I imaging in my head).

 

[Kinkless Tetrode]

The Wilkinson 6 point trem is a quality unit. It has the vintage correct bent steel saddles. The block is solid 1018 cold rolled mild steel and if you look at the block you will see the string holes are drilled unconventionally as far as depth and location. It stays in tune remarkably well with a good nut, and a roller or no string tree. It is astonishing how well it can stay in tune. It also sounds good.

Well, I take part of that back. I took the locking tuners off the strat with the Wilk 6 point trem and put a set of lite weight non-locking on, so I could use my set of Sperzel lockers on another guitar. I didn't think it would make any difference. But it did. Can't touch the trem now. It stayed in tune through some pretty heavy trem use before. Everything is the same, same nut-except the tuners.

If the kit has the Wilk tuners with two holes in the post, they work good with a trem-and they don't alter the tone thinner like some lockers do. Otherwise, I would strongly recommend lite weight Sperzel lockers.

 

[BlueX]

If the kit has the Wilk tuners with two holes in the post, they work good with a trem-and they don't alter the tone thinner like some lockers do. Otherwise, I would strongly recommend lite weight Sperzel lockers.

Thanks for sharing that! The tuners in the kit are slotted, with centre hole, and to be mounted with press bushings. I need to think this through, how I should do. Playability has priority over "period correct", or "vintage".

 

[tomsvintage]

@tomsvintage : Did you finish the body yourself? If so, how did you do the light middle part? The tone of that part is very nice.

My plan is to use nitrocellulose paint. Recommendations from Northwest Guitar in the UK is to use their Tobacco Brown in thin layers to get the right tone for the light middle part of a two-tone sunburst. Their Vintage Amber is meant to get vintage look on maple necks.

Also your guitar has the same width on the black shading as I want (and that I imaging in my head).

@BlueX ~ I did not do any body finish work on either guitar ~ just assembly of parts , wiring , setup and intonation

 

[Kinkless Tetrode]

Thanks for sharing that! The tuners in the kit are slotted, with centre hole, and to be mounted with press bushings. I need to think this through, how I should do. Playability has priority over "period correct", or "vintage".

View attachment 99345

You will need to drill 10mm holes for most locking tuners, including Sperzels.

However, it looks like there are period correct type tuners, which use the bushings in smaller hole, and which have the Wilkinson EZ lock system. What you do is is run the string through the bottom hole and pull it tight and then through top hole which is 90* off. Then turning it about 3/4 wrap will bring it up to pitch. The system works pretty good with vintage type trems.

https://reverb.com/item/37015137-wilkinson-ez-lok-deluxe-vintage-style-guitar-tuners-chrome-x6

These more modern type Wilkinson EZ lok require 10mm holes.

https://reverb.com/item/40713609-wilkinson-chrome-flat-sided-6-line-tuning-pegs

So do the Sperzels, which in my opinion are the best:

http://www.sperzel.com/

Others make quality Sperzel type tuners but they usually weigh more and in my experience that extra weight alters the tone, ...which is of course subjective.

 

[BlueX]

period correct type tuners, which use the bushings in smaller hole, and which have the Wilkinson EZ lock system

These looks like the tuners in my kit (but with the lock system), and are not expensive. Thanks for looking this up, highly appreciated!

body from CL ($25)

I did not do any body finish work on either guitar ~ just assembly of parts , wiring , setup and intonation

$25 for a finished body that looks that good? I like to do things myself, but suddenly the paint work seems less valuable (joking). In Sweden I can find finished Hosco bodies for about $250. I will use the picture of you guitar as a model, though. I like it.

 

[tomsvintage]

These looks like the tuners in my kit (but with the lock system), and are not expensive. Thanks for looking this up, highly appreciated!




$25 for a finished body that looks that good? I like to do things myself, but suddenly the paint work seems less valuable (joking). In Sweden I can find finished Hosco bodies for about $250. I will use the picture of you guitar as a model, though. I like it.

Yes ! I could't resist the body for that price !! I thought it must be a joke but it was real

 

[GregM]

My crappy old finish on my diy Strat using RIT fabric dye (fuscia) and some black gloss paint.

Has 3 coats of clear over the top.

 

[Mitchell Pearrow]

Should be a kick ass instrument once you have all together.
Good planning and parts , should = a great playing instrument

 

[BlueX]

My crappy old finish on my diy Strat using RIT fabric dye (fuscia) and some black gloss paint.

Has 3 coats of clear over the top.

I like the colour/tone, helps to bring out how the wood looks like in a good way. Thanks for sharing!

 

[BlueX]

Should be a kick ass instrument once you have all together.

Thanks!

Good planning and parts , should = a great playing instrument

"Execution" can play a role in the result as well. That's my main concern right now.