New 4x8 build commences - poll for trim wood

Which trim wood Mf's?

  • Zebra

    Votes: 2 22.2%
  • Wenge

    Votes: 2 22.2%
  • Canary

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Carib rosewood

    Votes: 1 11.1%
  • Curly red oak

    Votes: 4 44.4%
  • Other - specify

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    9
  • Poll closed .

Geeze

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And trim commences.

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I'll in the outer track then fit the inner walnut.

Russ
 

Geeze

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Scenes from this morning - clamps!

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Planing in the angle on the bottom walnut course

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Sanding flat

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Cutting the 'almost worth its weight in gold' BB ply 60x60 - I bought it last summer at $50 a sheet from a local company that imported it directly from those belligerent fellers who like their vodka. I wish I'd bought 6 vs. the 3 I brought home. I really do hate cutting it down to useable size - I have to move everything and turn my table saw 90°. So rather than mess with all of that or the louder than banshees on a killing spree skill saw I used my Bosch saber saw and a hook gullet blade.

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It's so powerful I have to dial it back or it literally runs away on 3/4 BB.

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Baffle cut to size

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Back will be trimmed up later.

Enough machine noise tonight. Guitar noises next.

Russ
 

BlueX

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I like the design of the frame around the baffle, with the dark corners and inner rims, and the lighter outer rims as contrast. This is gonna look good!
 

Geeze

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Design constraints dictated I upgrade my flexible drill extension with a head diameter of .625" to rigid style extensions that had the required .500" head to drill and insert the baffle support screws. Since I like to do the final 'seat' by hand I also picked up a 16" #2 screwdriver as my hands are way too big to get in where they need to be and at the correct angle. Stripped screws are a pet peeve.

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Cut, drilled and countersunk the canary piping and it's installed.

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I know this is a test cab but there's no reason for it to be ugly.

Russ
 

Geeze

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Afternoon progress.

Back cut to fit. I almost tapped it flush - woulda been fun getting it out.

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Baffle supports installed

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Jack port drilled.

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Back installed on sliding section,

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Slid in. It will go flush but no need as it has to come out for speakers.

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Now for speaker install and wiring.

But first - coffee!

Forgot the money shot.

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Russ
 

fitz288

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Spectacular woodworking as usual Russ. :applause:

How will the depth adjustments be made - some handles to push / pull the movable insert?
 

Geeze

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How will the depth adjustments be made - some handles to push / pull the movable insert?
Probably a couple of cab feet at opposite corners. I also plan to leave the back section untethered to see if the speakers will plus it out. I suspect that will take more amp volume than I'm willing to annoy the neighbors.

Russ
 

Geeze

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Put together with nothing but friction holding it together.

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@Dogs of Doom good call on the speakers they're a bit bright - expected that - and have a depth that exceeds the EVM12L's in the Fatbaby cabs. I need to turn some of the low end from the Heavy - maybe later. I tried it at full extension and it sounded lost like the mix on a delay was heavier on the repeats than the dry. Me likey of course I'm in the 'new cab smell' phase.

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Some more squeeze box action but I don't expect it will be deeper than 16".

Russ
 

BlueX

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Looks good Russ, as always! I'm also interested in what you find out from this cab.
 

Geeze

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I got smart and ran a couple of loops - OD and clean [neck] on an LPS. It's very subtle - I have to hold my hand on the top to feel a small increase in low end from a cab depth of 14.75" to 24". The sound attack gets a tiny bit softer. This at apartment friendly volumes. I suspect as the amp [1959] is pushed harder without an Ironman II the lows will increase but more from the amp rather than the speaker.

I've said this before and I'll say it again - Man I wish I had a spectrum/frequency analyser set up. But then that would lead to more testing and wild ass designs and less space in my house.

Russ
 

Dogs of Doom

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if you can record into a DAW, you can test the freq & dynamic range...

Best bet is to use a reference mic, not a general purpose (SM57, etc.) one...
 

Geeze

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if you can record into a DAW, you can test the freq & dynamic range...

Best bet is to use a reference mic, not a general purpose (SM57, etc.) one...
Thanks! A rabbit hole I've been avoiding for years - home recording gear. It may be time. Crap.

I've decided to trim the outer shell to apply the back row of oak trim and walnut corners to 14". The back will still slide in as I'm not ready to call the testing done just yet.

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Since I'm experienced enough not to trust the box is fully square I did a test cut which validated the not trusting. Only about .050" off on one side which was an easy fix with a high angle plane. I do have some cab art...

CAWl0Ao.jpg


Russ
 

Dogs of Doom

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Thanks! A rabbit hole I've been avoiding for years - home recording gear. It may be time. Crap.

Russ
one thing though...

Even though frequency graphs can look identical, it doesn't mean that the sound is identical. That's like, you see those graphs, from speakers, that look almost identical, yet sound nothing alike. Same w/ mic's...

So, even though graphs can give you a sense of the "technical" spec's, ears are the best for real world results.
 

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