I got this handmade cabinet today with pre-rola.

[Supernatural]

Thank you very much for your help, I really appreciate it!

I will change that wood probably with MDF. I will try to find MDF with 2.5 cm thick to be stronger and I will do the baffle cut-out a little smaller than 351cm. Let’s say 345mm that leave the speaker about the same "open" as the 351mm.

Then i will put "insert" nuts M6x15mm or M6x20mm to screw the speaker and make it stable:



I am already in love with this little cabinet. I find it in a bad shape, with his lower side almost half broken and very dirty. Just yesterday I glued back the broken side and it is very stable now:





As I don’t have a serious Amp already, just a Marshall MG30DFX (that I like), i dream this old little cabinet to be my main amp in the future. I Just need a "head" and will be both ready!

 

[Mrmadd]

Another way if possible
Buy a used cab made for a 15.
I have purchased a couple MG Marshall cabs at GC for under $99 and reworked them to my liking.
Sold off the MG drivers cheap.
They look great, and I only know "whats inside" that I placed there.

You can't make a cab that cheap. The raw materials cost more.

 

[Mrmadd]

As for the MG30DFX. I like those amps. For what they are, they sound great.
Lots of true Marshall tone and all the effects you really need in one box.

Good luck with that.

 

[Supernatural]

I understand what you mean but i really want to go with that little cabinet first of all because it fits exactly where I want to place it. Second reason is that I am romantic and i want it how I find it and keep the history of it.

Thinking to get a head for it, you believe that the following head will drives that speaker well? It’s say that it is switchable for 16 ohm speaker but recommend 1x12. Mine is 16 ohm 15 inch.

https://www.thomann.de/gr/marshall_dsl1hr.htm

Thank you guys!

 

[fitz]

I understand what you mean but i really want to go with that little cabinet first of all because it fits exactly where I want to place it. Second reason is that I am romantic and i want it how I find it and keep the history of it.

Thinking to get a head for it, you believe that the following head will drives that speaker well? It’s say that it is switchable for 16 ohm speaker but recommend 1x12. Mine is 16 ohm 15 inch.

https://www.thomann.de/gr/marshall_dsl1hr.htm

Thank you guys!

Yes, the DSL1HR will make that speaker roar.
Surprising amount of power in the little 1w amp - I used to have one before I got the 20.
15" vintage greenback should be a great match.

 

[Supernatural]

As I am still waiting for parts to finish my cabinet I have some questions if you don’t mind.

May sound stupid …but:

1) there is no problem if I put the speaker upside down in the cabinet, yes?

2) I am thinking to put a female jack plug behind the cabinet, and get, or make a male to male jack cable to connect my cab to a head amp. With what type of cable should I wire my speaker till the female plug? (about 20-25cm long) And what type of cable should I buy or make for the male to male extension from cab to head?

3) What about cable thickness in both cases?

4) At the end my final question is, what is the polarity from speaker to head?

Thank you!

 

[fitz]

As I am still waiting for parts to finish my cabinet I have some questions if you don’t mind.

May sound stupid …but:

1) there is no problem if I put the speaker upside down in the cabinet, yes?

2) I am thinking to put a female jack plug behind the cabinet, and get, or make a male to male jack cable to connect my cab to a head amp. With what type of cable should I wire my speaker till the female plug? (about 20-25cm long) And what type of cable should I buy or make for the male to male extension from cab to head?

3) What about cable thickness in both cases?

4) At the end my final question is, what is the polarity from speaker to head?

Thank you!

1. Nope, orientation does not matter.
2. Speaker cable should be 2 conductor. Don't use a shielded single conductor instrument cable. You could just buy one...
3. 12AWG
4. tip to +, sleeve to -

 

[Supernatural]

1. Nope, orientation does not matter.
2. Speaker cable should be 2 conductor. Don't use a shielded single conductor instrument cable. You could just buy one...
3. 12AWG
4. tip to +, sleeve to -

Thank you!

 

[Supernatural]

Small progress, but still a progress! Just today I receive the new wood with the speaker hole.

 

[Supernatural]

Before the final paint job I decided to give it a go to test it. It sound so great! DSL1 it was a great plus for this speaker!

 

[StingRay85]

cool speaker. I have 4 of those sitting in a 1979B cabinet. it was originally paired with a Marshall Major. I don't see why it wouldn't be a guitar speaker. The smooth cone was also used on the D130(F)/E130. The ribbed cone 15" speaker is a bass speaker (D140F,E140,K140). Value in very good shape would be around 500 each. A quad was offered for 2500$ a few months ago in the US, and it appears to have been sold. But yours seems a bit too rough to get this kind of numbers. Nice job on the cab

 

[RLW59]

Small progress, but still a progress! Just today I receive the new wood with the speaker hole.

The baffle is thick and well supported since the cab is just a little bigger than the speaker.

But plywood is recommended for baffles because it's very stable and resistant to warping or cracking/splitting.

Solid wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity and is prone to warping, cracking, splitting. (I've seen thicker pieces than that develop severe warps.) Old, well-seasoned solid wood is more stable than freshly cut solid wood, but all solid wood moves with changes in humidity.

At the least you'll want to paint it, with double coats on all the cut edges. Let the paint dry very thoroughly so it won't glue the speaker to the baffle.

It's fine to start with, but you'd be better off replacing it with plywood eventually.

 

[Supernatural]

The baffle is thick and well supported since the cab is just a little bigger than the speaker.

But plywood is recommended for baffles because it's very stable and resistant to warping or cracking/splitting.

Solid wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity and is prone to warping, cracking, splitting. (I've seen thicker pieces than that develop severe warps.) Old, well-seasoned solid wood is more stable than freshly cut solid wood, but all solid wood moves with changes in humidity.

At the least you'll want to paint it, with double coats on all the cut edges. Let the paint dry very thoroughly so it won't glue the speaker to the baffle.

It's fine to start with, but you'd be better off replacing it with plywood eventually.

Thank you for the infos

The new baffle it is not solid wood. It is MDF. It is a piece of MDF door. Looks like solid wood but it’s not.

 

[RLW59]

MDF is very stable (unless it gets wet) so that should be fine.