For Maxon lovers...

[Vesperado]

I found myself rotating Maxon stomps on and off the ol' pedal board, not one would remain a main stay, save my TS9 once I had tweaked it to taste. Yes, the TS9 I have was made by Maxon.
My hard work is your gain, ye Maxon lovers out there...here are a handfull of these JEMS for your audio pleasure!!!

(1) Maxon for Ibanez Tube Screamer, Nine Series, 2000s RI.
- Toshiba IC > socketed JRC4558D
- R106 51k > 9k (clean boost capable)
- C103 46n/47.4n via SPST (mids taper)
- R102/107 1u BP > film
- C109 10u pol. > tant.
- LED clear red > difused
- C116 47u > 330u pol.
- C117 100u > 470u pol.
- Q102/104/105-7 > removed (Q102=link)
- Q102 > link outer legs only (effect signal path)
- R117/121/126/127 > removed
- C111 100n > removed
- D107: wired to 4PDT stomp via Con2 Red/White wire for EE (ON); this is how to acheive True Bypass

(2) Maxon Vintage Overdrive Pro, Nine Series
- 2x NJM4558D > socketed TL072ACP
- C10 10p > removed
- C02/16 1u > film
- C14 1u > tant.
- C15 82p > 253p disk
- C05 100p > 168p disk
- ZD01 > remove and link
- C13 10u BP > film
- C19 220u pol. > 470u pol. Chemicon KZN
- C21/26 220u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. KZN
- C22/27 100u pol. > 330u pol. KZN
- C32/33 100u pol.> 330u pol. KZN
- C24/29/30/31 100u pol. > 220u pol. Nichi

(3) Maxon Overdrive Pro +, Nine Series
- NJM4558D > socketed STM TL072CN (OD9=normal mode), NECMAL C4570C > socketed STM TL072CN (boost mode)
- C01 22n > 21.5n film
- C09 68n > 47n panasonic film
- C11 22n > 23n (Tone ctrl.)
- C14 1u > film
- C04 56p > 517p (Boost clipping smoothing cap)
- C06 100p > 120p panasonic film
- C08/xx (2) 1u pol. > tant.
- 10u pol. > film
- ZD01 > remove and link
- C16 220u pol. > 470u pol. Chemicon KZN
- C20/21 220u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. KZN
- C24/25 100u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. KZN
- C30/31 100u > 220u pol.
- C28/29 33u > 100u pol.
- C26/27 22u > 100u pol.

(4) Maxon Sonic Distortion R.I., Nine Series
- JRC4558D reconditioned
- C106 10n > 57n Panasonic film
- C107 27n > 33.8n Panasonic film
- C108 100n > 108n Panasonic film
- R110 6.8k > 1.33k metalized film
- R108 2.2k > 4.33k metalized film
- filter 100u pol. > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN
- C105 .47u pol. > 1u tan.
- power entry diode > 1N4007

(5) Maxon Distortion Master, Vintage Series
- NJM4558D stock
- C12 3n3 > 1,168p (anywhere between 1.1-1.2n OK)
- C14 220n > 440n film
- C05 10p > 58p disk
- C02 1u pol. > tant.
- C06/09/11 10u pol. > tant.
- C16 220u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN
- C07/xx 100u pol. > 220u pol.
- ZD01 > remove and link
- DPDT > 3PDT for T.B.

(6) Maxon Overdrive/Soft Distortion, Nine Series
- (2) UA741 > socketed TL071CP, NJM4558D > socketed LM1458N
- C03 47n > 100n film (input buffer coupler, FET output)
- C14 1u pol. > tant.
- 1u BP > film
- C6/9/12 100n > 116n (a little more bass pass-through)
- ZD01 > remove and link
- C19/21 220u pol. > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN

(7) Maxon OD9 Overdrive, Nine Series
- NJM4558D, socketed
- 47u pol. > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN
- 100u pol. > 470u pol. KZN
- Input cap 20n > 19.8n panasonic film
- Mids taper 47n > 47.3n panasonic film
- (2) 1u pol. coupling caps > film
- 51k Drive floor resistor > 9k metal film

*All Panasonic film values no longer on the market were pulled from other unsalvageable Japanese pedals which are in my possession. Some were built to the values shown. These are the notorious smooth yellow candy types and are preferrable over others for their pleasant tone. Nichicon has continued to produce most of these, but their range offered is somewhat limited.

The OSD9 is based off the OD880, which is based off the MXR Distortion+/DOD 250, but without the unnecessary parts. Stock NJM4558D gets a classic tone, JRC2904D a thrash 80s, and LM1458N removes the blanket and allows the pedal to breath with powerful lows, creamy mids, and juicy highs--highly recommended!

The pedals I received may not share in the same component values as yours. There were several versions at different times issued from the factory and that fact would account for this. It is impossible to find schematics online for these, except for the imfamous Tube Screamer. I traced areas with the eye and did not bother to draw them out. I simply don't have time for that.

At any rate, feel free to try different components to suite your tastes. And if you make a discovery worthy of mention, you can post it here. Come join the club!

 

[Vesperado]

Updated above post

 

[Vesperado]

Maxon Compressor Pro+, Nine Series
- NJM022BD stock, (2) NJM022D > (2) TL062CP socketed
- (2) dbx in-lines
- C18/21 220u pol. > 330u pol. KZN
- C22/23 100u pol. > 330u pol. KZN
- C12 220u pol. > 470u pol. Chemicon KZN
- C27 22u pol. > 100u pol.
- C03/04 1u BP > film
- C06 10u BP > 1u film
- readjust (8) trimmers to taste (LH corner controls Attack time, utilize full range of dials and status LED to find out what does what, and set your levels to your style of playing, how it interacts with the amp (at a low volume of course!), etc.--its a good idea to take a snapshot of the board before proceeding in event you want to revert)

Maxon Flanger, Nine Series
- NJM4558D > socketed TL062CP, TL022CP (LFO) stock, TL022CP > socketed TL062CP, SA571N (compander) stock, BL3207/3201 (BBD/Clock) stock (better figures than MN--very nice!); some units have MN3207s fitted...
- IC8 > voltage regulator defeated by soldering together two of its legs (for a full 9V to the BBD circuit = optimal headroom). Leave IC7 alone. Leave IC8 alone if using an AC/DC wall wort.
- C40/41 220u pol. > 330u pol.
- C42/44 47u pol. > 220u pol. 16V Nichicon (for fit)
- SR3 502 > 103 (increased Resonance trimmer range) or fit a 4k7 in series somewhere before/after the 502 (brings down the extreme-ness for a more Rock/Metal style flange)
- C2/17/22 1u BP > WIMA films
- C11/23/26 10u BP > WIMA films: use wire and relocate cans off board with hot-glue
- C5/7/29 10u pol. > tant. AVX
- C46 0.22u pol. > tant. AVX
- C4/27 3n9 > 4n Panasonic film
- Clock/Bias trimmers > readjusted to taste (9V hack prompts readjustment: right = higher, left = lower. I find the Clock trim to be more or less ganged with the position of the Bias trim. Take a snap-shot if you are squirmish!)

Maxon Stereo Chorus Pro, Nine Series
- MN3207 (BBD) stock, SA571N (compander) stock, 3x NJM4558D > 3x TL062CP socketed, TL022CP (LFO) stock
- C32 220u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN
- C35 100u pol. Nichicon > 220u pol. Nichicon
- IC9 > voltage regulator defeated by soldering together two of its legs (for a full 9V to the BBD circuit = optimal headroom). Leave IC9 alone if using an AC/DC wall wort.
- (5) 1u BP > film WIMA
- (4) 10u pol. > tant. AVX
- (2) 1u pol. > tant. AVX
- SR1 is Bias trimmer
- SR2 is Treble Bleed trimmer (or Tone control)
- SR3 is Delay range trimmer (RH=less intense, LH=more intense)

Maxon CS550 Stereo Chorus, Vintage Series
- 3x NECMAL C4570C stock, TL022CP (LFO) stock, MN3207 (BBD) stock, SA571N (compander) stock
- C25 10u pol. > tant. AVX
- C21/22 1u pol. > tant. AVX
- C4 2.2u pol. > tant. AVX
- C2/6/10/18 1u BP > WIMA films
- C13 22p > 33p MLCC TDK
- R47 5k > 1k (speed range low-limit)
- IC7 > remove and link (outer legs only) for 9V headroom across the board. Leave alone if using an AC/DC wall-wort.
- C31/33 100u pol. Nichicon > 330u Chemicon KZN
- SR1 = bias
- SR2 = manual (cF axis. I set mine full LH)
- SR3 = warble intensity trimmer (I set mine about half way)

Maxon Flanger 303, Mk I
- Reticon SAD1024, 2x TL062CP socketed, TL022CP (LFO)
- C114/115 47u > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN
- C122 10u > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN
- Q107 > linked
- C124 4u7 pol. > tant. AVX
- DC Barrel Jack installed topside
- Wired for True Bypass via 3PDT switch

Don't know why I keep posting these...

I have some original Ibanez/Maxon Nine Series (not Godlyke/Maxon) pedals which I have tweaked to taste, including some collectables. Anyways, to sum up the pointers, basically all you need to do is replace old opamps with new productions, leave the old BBDs alone, defeat power clamping (double check those datasheets!), remove series zeners (as everything is standardized these days), replace all BP electrolytics with films/MLCC (your call), recondition all electrolytics which drain to ground, isopropyl alcohol to pots and jacks and boards with a small brush in some instances (its called cleaning), wire for true bypass where available, and tweak parameters and values to taste. Save those little shinny yellow candy caps for later!

A quick mention on the output couplers: you can replace 10u BP with tantalums in event you cannot fit/find film. Aluminum caps are OK, but its 2022, so yeah, better tech has been available for a while. Film or ceramic will keep your tone intact. Or use 1u film as anything 1u + is typically fine, depending upon the output Z.

Ensure you trace out the signal path to orient polarities: pos. to neg., that is, signal in: pos. signal out: neg. There is also the option to run wires to the board to get a film in there, perhaps hot-glue it somewhere out of the way. Going from Non-Polar to Polar has an impact on tone. Feel free to experiment.

I am a fan of Ibanez/Maxon and Godlyke/Maxon, but I am equally a fan of low-noise, optimal signal pass-thru, high-headroom tone. And with there always being a way to improve something, I have managed to squeeze the maximum potential out of these BEAUTIES. And now I share their maximum potential with you.

 

[Gutch220]

Isn't Ibanez or Godlyke just the distributer? They don't actually make anything, no?

 

[Vesperado]

Isn't Ibanez or Godlyke just the distributer? They don't actually make anything, no?

Yup, a distributer. I'm just delineating the difference between Nine Series Ibanez/Maxon of the eighties and Godlyke's recent Nine Series, as they share the label.

 

[Amadeus91]

Here is my Keeley modded Maxon and my flanger.
The flanger sounds really good!

 

[Vesperado]

Updated post #3

 

[Wildeman]

Maxon, Maxoff .... 1974 Phase Tone.

 

[Xirdneh Imij]

I found myself rotating Maxon stomps on and off the ol' pedal board, not one would remain a main stay, save my TS9 once I had tweaked it to taste. Yes, the TS9 I have was made by Maxon.

The last two days have I auditioned my Maxon "greenies" afresh, this time with fresh components for the undertaking. I dialed them in and tweaked them over the ol' Blackheart, my pedal-platform. Then, I auditioned them until I was satisfied with the ol' Marshall.

These are now the best Maxon greenies on the planet as far as I am concerned. Most of them were the worst which left the factory; either wrong values or poor selections. Might explain why I got them off the Japanese market on the cheap, anyways, it prompted me to finally do something about it.

My hard work is your gain, ye Maxon lovers out there...here are a handfull of these JEMS for your audio pleasure!!!

(1) Maxon for Ibanez Tube Screamer, Nine Series, 2000s RI.
- Toshiba chip > socketed LM1458N
- 51k > 9k metal film NFB resistor KOA
- 70n / 50n Panasonic films via SPST for 47n
- (2) 1u pol. > WIMA films
- 10u pol. > tant. AVX
- 100u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN
- 4P4T combination pulled from another R.I. Nine Series (stealthy) wired for T.B. (although it requires cycling the sw thrice over !!)

(2) Maxon Vintage Overdrive Pro, Nine Series
- 2x NJM4558D (stock)
- C10 10p > 240p MLCC TDK
- C02/16 1u > WIMA film
- C14 1u > tant. AVX
- C15 82p > 220p MLCC TDK
- C05 100p > 112p MLCC TDK
- ZD01 > remove and link
- (2) 1u pol. > tant. AVX
- 10u pol. > tant. AVX
- C19 220u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN

(3) Maxon Overdrive Pro +, Nine Series
- NJM4558D > socketed TI TL072ACP (TS9=normal mode), NECMAL C4570C (boost mode) stock
- C14 1u > WIMA film
- C03 47n > 55n Panasonic film
- C04 56p > 470p MLCC TDK
- C08/xx (2) 1u pol. > tant. AVX
- 10u pol. > WIMA film
- ZD01 > remove and link
- C16 220u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN

(4) Maxon Sonic Distortion R.I., Nine Series.
- JRC4558D reconditioned
- C106 10n > 57n Panasonic film
- C107 27n > 33.8n Panasonic film
- C108 100n > 108n Panasonic film
- R110 6.8k > 1.33k metalized film
- R108 2.2k > 4.33k metalized film
- filter 100u pol. > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN
- C105 .47u pol. > 1u tan. AVX
- power entry diode > 1N4007

(5) Maxon Distortion Master, Vintage Series
- NJM4558D stock
- C12 3n3 > 1n Panasonic film
- C4 1u > 1.005u (stock + 4n7 Panasonic film in //) or >> 1.022u w/ C05 stock; both remove "boxiness"
- C14 220n > 440n metalized film
- C05 10p > 58p MLCC TDK
- C02 1u pol. > tant. AVX
- C06/09/11 10u pol. > tant. AVX
- C16 220u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN
- ZD01 > remove and link
- DPDT > 3PDT for T.B.

(6) Maxon Overdrive/Soft Distortion, Nine Series
- (2) UA741 > socketed TL071CP, NJM4558D > socketed LM1458N
- C10 4n7 > 15.5n EPCOS
- C14 1u pol. > tant. AVX
- 1u BP > WIMA film
- ZD01 > remove and link
- C18 220u pol. Nichicon > 330u pol. Chemicon KZN

*All Panasonic film values no longer on the market were pulled from other unsalvageable Japanese pedals which are in my possession. Some were built to the values shown. These are the notorious smooth yellow candy types and are preferrable over others for their pleasant tone. Nichicon has continued to produce most of these, but their range offered is somewhat limited.

I have not departed from the topologies, but rather have retained them. The zeners which some had in series with the power entries are unwanted when using Battery Packs and Daisy Chains. I suppose this would be the sole exception here. The SD9 is particularly sensitive to them in the chain. Even after all the improvements, the SD9 is my least fav, it has a Fuzz tone circuit which is quite tempermental to reshape. I will most likely move this one along. I already parted with the newer Super Tube Screamer as I could not get it to play well with my styles, nor cared much for the other mode.

The DS830 and OD9Pro+ (both modes) do not incorporate peakers in the NFBs, they only have the diode-pair smoothing caps, which can be somewhat manipulated for shifting the Q of the mids downward and rolling off some highs.

The OSD9 is based off the OD880, which is based off the MXR Distortion+, but without the unnecessary parts. Stock NJM4558D gets a classic tone, JRC2904D a thrash 80s, and LM1458N removes the blanket and allows the pedal to breath with powerful lows, creamy mids, and juicy highs--highly recommended!

The DS830 and VOP9 seem to find their home with the JRC4558D opamp, and sound great with that integrated chip.

The pedals I received may not share in the same component values as yours. There were several versions at different times issued from the factory and that fact would account for this. It is impossible to find schematics online for these, except for the imfamous Tube Screamer. I traced areas with the eye and did not bother to draw them out. I simply don't have time for that.

At any rate, feel free to try different components to suite your tastes. And if you make a discovery worthy of mention, you can post it here. Come join the club!

Can't really believe any of this component micromanagement makes any worthwhile difference.

 

[Vesperado]

Updated post #3.

Quick note on the CS550; had Jimi Hendrix in need for a Psycho-Flange, this perhaps would have served his purposes. It's different from a standard flanger in that it has about 1/3 of the rise/fall, thrice as much speed, and a blend control. The waveform sounds triangular. I added a 33p in the clock's delay line to give the tone more of a doubling effect, and perhaps why I consider it to fall in the Hendrix camp for psychodelic stun-gun solo work. I cannot consider it a chorus even though it was marketed as such. The unit I have hailed from Japan with no battery access door, and has the MN3207 low-voltage chipset included. The only other pedal that I have seen so far from Maxon with a NECMAL chip is the OD9Pro+, situated in the Boost mode circuit. They are clean and sprite. All things considered this pedal was likely designed for solo-work, although if you set it just right you can acheive LUSH doubling-flange for rythym work, too. Definitely an attention grabber. NB: if you plan on tinkering with the PCBs outside of the housing, you need to ground the lug on the board nearest the input jack, else your LED will not illuminate, fwiw.

Auditioned the PAC9, wasn't impressed. Too processed of a sound due to its overly boosted trebles (via a peaker?); made my drives sound shrill and unpleasant. SMD components throughout (not through-hole). Out of curiosity I checked the volts off of the MC4108/9 proprietary chipset and read 5V off the BBD rail. 5 volts!! Godlyke advertised it as having internal voltages boosted, or something to that effect, but the only boost seen was for the 022B opamp, which read around 10V with a 9V batt. Yeah, I'll be moving this one along...

 

[DaDoc]

Have you ever used the OD-820? After going through a few Tubescreamers, I settled on the that one..Much better, although inall fairness I've never got to try one of the TS 808's with the "good chip"..The one I had was one of the later 80's models.

I use it mainly for a clean boost.

When it comes to TS-type pedals, it's been my experience they sound better in Fender amps than in Marshalls.

 

[Vesperado]

Have you ever used the OD-820? After going through a few Tubescreamers, I settled on the that one..Much better, although inall fairness I've never got to try one of the TS 808's with the "good chip"..The one I had was one of the later 80's models.

I use it mainly for a clean boost.

When it comes to TS-type pedals, it's been my experience they sound better in Fender amps than in Marshalls.

I have not, although I auditioned a Klon clone and could not get on the proverbial Centaur bandwagon. Lately, I've been pulling out the 4558s as I find them bloated in the lows, shrill in the mids, and compressed in the highs. This goes across the board for 4558 variants in both overdrives and effects. I do think that the DS830 sounds fine stock, and that is the only 4558 I have suffered to stand among my newer Maxons. It is, nonethteless. a close second in the VOP9, but those TL072A take the cake there as they crunch oh so good in that circuit.

Methinks a Toshiba chip sounds most authentic, or most fit, for a Tube Screamer, ymmv. I think once people explore other options, they typically discover something more up their alley, which might meet or exceed their expectations. What has done it for me (as I bring my amp up to SPL--no attenuator just strait crank it up) are LM1458N and TL072A for my overdrives. I am persuaded that these are still in production due to popular demand. The numbers do not lie, and people keep buying them. I got off the 4558 bandwagon once my ears told me: no more. They do have a certain character to them which make them stand apart, but not a character which I can tolerate at SPL.

Ofcourse, opamp rolling is not very perceivable unless you upgrade the circuit's components. In retrospect, I wish I would have explored this avenue earlier in life, it doubtlessly would have spared me much economy. All the pedals I have auditioned and since "flipped" attest to that, lol. All considered, my first overdrive should have been a Tube Screamer, it would have steered my course aright thence...

 

[Jet Bycraft]

Thank you for all of the information. A lot of hard work has gone into those modifications, as well as his thread.

 

[Vesperado]

Another pedal added to Post #3.

 

[Vesperado]

I've updated a few pedals today to make them suit my amp better.

I run the TS9 and DS830 on 12V; everything else gets 9V for the greenies.

Was able to remove some unwanted compression. Sound better running modulation into them, too. If there is anything to help guys with turning their setups,, its this: grab a calculator. Doing so will spare a lot of guess work and time. Find out which frequencies corner where, etc. with your amp(s) and set your pedals to "fill in" the frequency range where your amp operates at. For any overlapping freqq. will cause that part of the band to compress with the pedal engaged. So calculate your corners and bleeds within the circuit to give yourself a target on component values, and adjust thence. A lot of manufacturers/builders spec their pedal off a certain setup, and unless you share in that very setup, as well as share in their tonal objectives, chances are that you will need to make a few tweaks.

The VOP9 now CRUSHES. I had confused the signal flow beforehand, and created some compression due to misjudgment. I have corrected the original post. But for some reason this pedal doesn't get along too well with my TSL, still a great pedal for combo amps.

The DS830 now takes all my greenies stacked into it without producing any compression. It was the last in the chain until I could no longer tolerate the loose low-end. Upon inspection, I found a total of SEVEN coupling caps! It has since been stowed back into its box. Now I have the OSD9 taking last, due to its 18V headroom and shear clipping madness, making it the most powerful (opamp) boost on my board. Everything stacks into it should I go mad (and on occassion...)

The OD9Pro+ is metal-core mania. If you want to shave off some hair, don't increase C06 more than 20p or so, else you will loose the metal-core character of the Boost mode. You can get your T75 to emulate a V30 simply by increasing C03 beyond 43n, to say a 47n. But there is no way to turn it off, and I find no room to mount an exterior switch...

All pedals now have improved filtering, which makes a world of difference when running modulation into them, or stacking.

Enjoy!

 

[Vesperado]

Updated post #3. CS550, a psycho-flange faux-chorus, gets Leslie tone with the delay trimmer set roughly center range and 33p for Clock delay line. Going higher in value will adduce too much warble. Manual (a trimmer) needs to be set to max throb, as well as full Wet for Mix.

As for R47, you may or may not need to bother, depending on your pedal's Speed pot. Mine was out of tolerance, 85k range, and R44 read 295k. My assumption is that if the pot gets a full 100k range, it should be ok. Then again, if you need to slow 'er down, then, there ya go!

This pedal is similar to my Yamaha CH-100 in tone with an overdrive, only that pedal's LFO is tuned for a slow and resolute stereo spread. It has twice the bit depth. But the Maxon draws only a fraction of what the Yamaha draws in current. Faux-chorus lately seems to be finding a mainstay in my arsenal...

 

[Vesperado]

Updated some pedals.

 

[Vesperado]

Updated OD9Pro+ and OSD9. They're much fatter in the mids and lows now, which help push those freqq through the amp giving it more body and thump. Plus, they excell for drop tunings, good chug-a-lug tone.

 

[Vesperado]

Another tune up for my TRIFECTA of Maxon greenies. First stage (second for OSD9) couplers have been enlarged. I listened afresh to some sound clips I had uploaded and noticed that I had hardly any lows coming through the recordings, hence I retuned the circuits.

All three stack that much better now. I will post some new sound clips soon...

 

[Vesperado]

The gain is insane, it's over the top! My ears are ringing like crazy.

PRS SC250 w/ Wilkinson Overwound Ceramic Bridge on "9.5", tone "6.5" > boost > modified TSL-100 @ 120 VAC > 1960A cab > (L) Audix i5 (R) MXL 440 > MOTU M2 > Android 10 > USB Audio Rec Pro > 24/96 WAV, raw

Amber, thence, modified Ibanez TS9 48n, dido w/ 58n, modified Maxon OD9Pro+ normal mode, dido in boost mode, modified OSD9:

Record_2023_02_13_231247.356

Listen to this track for free on Whyp.

whyp.it

Red, thence, dido:

Record_2023_02_13_231629.910

Listen to this track for free on Whyp.

whyp.it