Ceriatone Plexi51 AllAccess build

[Gene Ballzz]

Great work, though I'm not sure I like that ground lug mounted on a stand off that appears to have crushed/deformed the washer underneath it! Given the steel chassis, I think I would use a "BIG HONKIN'" soldering iron/gun to solder the ground lugs to the chassis! Permanent attachment that will NEVER become intermittent of loose! Of course, you would need to scuff/burnish the chassis surface for good flow and adhesion! I have never seen a ground to chassis connection fail on a Fender that was done in this manner! For added peace of mind, you could even use the bolt also. A good spot weld, if you have the equipment and steel lugs, could work as well.
Just My ,
Gene

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Great work, though I'm not sure I like that ground lug mounted on a stand off that appears to have crushed/deformed the washer underneath it! Given the steel chassis, I think I would use a "BIG HONKIN'" soldering iron/gun to solder the ground lugs to the chassis! Permanent attachment that will NEVER become intermittent of loose! Of course, you would need to scuff/burnish the chassis surface for good flow and adhesion! I have never seen a ground to chassis connection fail on a Fender that was done in this manner! For added peace of mind, you could even use the bolt also. A good spot weld, if you have the equipment and steel lugs, could work as well.
Just My ,
Gene

Thanks for looking out for me. The standoff is for the master volume wires that will run from the dual pot to the power tubes. I use ground lugs because they have two holes to be able to tie it to.

Here is an example from my HIWATT clone.

 

[Gene Ballzz]

I see, said the blind man! Nice idea!
Never Mind,
Gene

 

[Rotorcraft230]

I thought that run of wires was awful long, I wanted to support them so that what I have come up with.

 

[Springfield Scooter]

That is beautiful Rotorcraft!
Im curious about your ties...
I see your using a pliable tie of some sort, as opposed to the more common nylon zip ties....
Is there a reason for that, or is it simply a preference ?

 

[Rotorcraft230]

That is beautiful Rotorcraft!
Im curious about your ties...
I see your using a pliable tie of some sort, as opposed to the more common nylon zip ties....
Is there a reason for that, or is it simply a preference ?

It’s mil-spec lacing chord. I think it has a much cleaner look and fits more to the image of a “hand wired amp” than zip ties do. It’s wax impregnated so when you tie it it won’t come loose, its widely used in aviation. It’s about 50 bucks a roll but I’ll bet you can get 1000 ties out of it

 

[Gene Ballzz]

It’s mil-spec lacing chord. I think it has a much cleaner look and fits more to the image of a “hand wired amp” than zip ties do. It’s wax impregnated so when you tie it it won’t come loose, its widely used in aviation. It’s about 50 bucks a roll but I’ll bet you can get 1000 ties out of it

I've seen and asked about that stuff before. Maybe it ws on one of your other builds or someone else. I notice you using dark and lighter colored versons of it. Are they the same, except for the color or does the color difference denote a different spec in your day job?
VERY Cool!
Gene

 

[Rotorcraft230]

A-A-52080 Nylon Lacing Tape - Western Filament, Inc.

A-A-52080 (Formerly MIL-T-43435B Type I) Nylon Lacing Tape braided with high-tenacity nylon (polyamide) yarns and impregnated with the required finish. Approximate operating temperature range is -67°F (-55°C) to 325°F (162°C). Standard colors are Natural and Black. Special colors are available...

wfilament.com

It’s all the same spec, just different colors and sizes. The black was .040” and the natural on this build is .085” wide. I like the wider chord.

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Here is the master volume, still have some soldering to do at the pot but gotta go for now.

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Different view

 

[Gunner64]

Super nice work. I know how much time and effort goes into being meticulous like that.

I try to be that perfect when I start one, but I must get a little impatient when I start seeing the end.

My builds look good but not micrometer straight like yours. that's awesome.

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Super nice work. I know how much time and effort goes into being meticulous like that.

I try to be that perfect when I start one, but I must get a little impatient when I start seeing the end.

My builds look good but not micrometer straight like yours. that's awesome.

Thanks for the compliment, I love building these things. Just have to finish the control pot wiring, it’s about 60% done already, then preamp tubes and PI tube. Should finish it up this week.

 

[Rotorcraft230]

2 more wires for the control pots and on to the preamp and PI.

 

[Marcomel79]

Your son is very lucky! Beautiful work

 

[Guitar-Rocker]

I see you have a mix of Xicon and Draloric resistors. Did the Draloric resistors come with the kit?

 

[Rotorcraft230]

I see you have a mix of Xicon and Draloric resistors. Did the Draloric resistors come with the kit?

Yes everything you see came with the kit, except for some of the wiring. What’s up with the resistors? I’ve herd of Xicon but not Draloric?

 

[Guitar-Rocker]

I personally think the Dralorics are superb, and are only second place to the Pihers

 

[Rotorcraft230]

Finished up the 2 preamp tubes. Got the PI. That will be tomorrow, I’m tired.

 

[Chris-in-LA]

Finished up the 2 preamp tubes. Got the PI. That will be tomorrow, I’m tired. View attachment 103869

You might get some hum laying those preamp wires right on top of your heater wires like that.

 

[Rotorcraft230]

You might get some hum laying those preamp wires right on top of your heater wires like that.

I tried to get them to cross at 90 degrees. They still may be a little close, we’ll see. Gonna finish tonight.
Anyway, you won’t hear the hum while you play, hum is tone right?