1st Gen JCM 2000 40 Watt Combo Repair Help Needed

[macanoodough]

I blew the HT Fuse, and I only know for sure because the filament is gone. I also heard massive noise whenever the amp budged while it was on, the kind of noise that would suggest a tube was bad. But it worked so I played it till it stopped working.

I bought a new set of tubes, same as the ones inside already so I don't have to bias them, but I need to know exactly what fuse to buy. There's some mismatched options in other threads about slow blow/fast blow, and none of them are on this exact model anyway. So I'm trying to buy just the t400 mA, but too many different options are coming up. Can anyone post a link for the correct fuse, with the proper ampere? Or one I can find at an Ace or other hardware store?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Dogs of Doom]

https://www.amazon.com/T400mAL250V-T400mA-T400mL250V-Cartridge-Slow-Blow/dp/B008QYTSCI

t400 mA

T = timed blow, or "slow blow"

400mA is the current

250V = volt power it can handle

 

[Jon Snell]

Always replace like for like.
Read the value and type on the ends of the blown fuse!
Please purchase from a known supplier not fleabay or armazon.
If you do, at least the fuse will be the correct rating and blow when and if it needs to!
Use Mouser, RS, Farnell, CPC or any known supplier ... even a TV repair shop should keep these.

 

[Pete Farrington]

I bought a new set of tubes, same as the ones inside already so I don't have to bias them

Can you explain why you think the new valves don’t need the bias checked, eg in what way are the new valves the same as the old ones?

 

[Gunner64]

So it's a DSL401 combo?
And you have no filament glow?
Aren't these notorious for smoking the rectifiers in the heater circuit?

The heater string is fused on the pcb. If you have no filament glow I'd suspect the rectifier, heater fuse, or both.

Or are you just referring to the ht fuse filament? I may have interpreted wrong.