# Les Paul string height



## KISS NATION

can anyone tell me a reasonable string height for a Les Paul?
I found a guide that says the strings at the 12th fret should be 1.2mm on the high E and 2mm on the low E, currently my strings are 3.5mm on the high E and 3mm on the low E.
I know there is no such thing as a correct string height, but mine does feel a little on the high side.
would it be a good idea to lower the strings according to the guide I have found, or is there a better guide for string height?


----------



## paul-e-mann

I set my LP and every other guitar 1/16" gap at the 12th fret.


----------



## mickeydg5

I believe the 1.2mm high and 2.0mm low is typical specification for Les Pauls.

I do not even have 3.5mm on the low side of my acoustic.


----------



## GuitarBuilder

Straight from Gibson:

Hi I'm David the final inspector at Gibson Memphis. I can give you the factory spec info. on our setups. You will need a mechanics rule to do this properly. 
To check neck relief: fret the low E at the first and 15th fret (not 12th) reach to the 7th fret and tap string. There should be a small space between string and fret - no thicker than a piece of paper. Do the same with the high E. ACTION: fret low E at first fret and measure the distance from the bottom of the to the top of the 15th fret. It should be 5/64". Do the same with the high E, measurement should be 3/64". Now measure the string height at the nut; underside of the string to the top of the fret. Low E and A should measure 2/64", D and G =1.5/64" and B and high E = 1/64". If string height at nut is correct, recheck string height at 12th fret with strings open. Measurement for low and high E's should be the same as measurement taken at the 15th. 
Pickups: Fret low E at 22nd fret and measure pickup height from underside of string to point on pickup closest to string. Bridge pickup should be 3/64" (I think the 3/64" is a typo, it should be 3/32") , neck pickup should be 4/32". Fret high E at 22nd fret, distance for both pickups should be 3/32". 
Play test: Play every string at every fret checking for buzzes. Bend High E string 1 and 1/2 steps, beginning at the sixth fret and ending at 22nd, checking for "choking" and to make sure string stays in nut notch.


----------



## Roadburn

I do think it's about time companies like Gibson would start using the metric system....


Birma, Liberia and the U.S. are the only countries in the world who still use empiric
wtf is an inch???


----------



## mickeydg5

An inch is 25.4mm.


----------



## diesect20022000

my SG's set at .6mm to .4 but it needs a slight adjustment. i keep mine LOW generaly .4mm low e (fret board to bottom of the string without fretting anything) but they have to have perfect frets for it. all of mine are in the .4-.6mm territory though depending on when i set them up. the SG is due.


----------



## Stringjunkie

WTF is a MM? Lol


----------



## Georgiatec

GuitarBuilder said:


> Straight from Gibson:
> 
> Hi I'm David the final inspector at Gibson Memphis. I can give you the factory spec info. on our setups. You will need a mechanics rule to do this properly.
> To check neck relief: fret the low E at the first and 15th fret (not 12th) reach to the 7th fret and tap string. There should be a small space between string and fret - no thicker than a piece of paper. Do the same with the high E. ACTION: fret low E at first fret and measure the distance from the bottom of the to the top of the 15th fret. It should be 5/64". Do the same with the high E, measurement should be 3/64". Now measure the string height at the nut; underside of the string to the top of the fret. Low E and A should measure 2/64", D and G =1.5/64" and B and high E = 1/64". If string height at nut is correct, recheck string height at 12th fret with strings open. Measurement for low and high E's should be the same as measurement taken at the 15th.
> Pickups: Fret low E at 22nd fret and measure pickup height from underside of string to point on pickup closest to string. Bridge pickup should be 3/64" (I think the 3/64" is a typo, it should be 3/32") , neck pickup should be 4/32". Fret high E at 22nd fret, distance for both pickups should be 3/32".
> Play test: Play every string at every fret checking for buzzes. Bend High E string 1 and 1/2 steps, beginning at the sixth fret and ending at 22nd, checking for "choking" and to make sure string stays in nut notch.



Thanks for that David. I will use this as a starting point. I've found over the years (especially with older guitars) that a bit of adjustment from factory settings is possible. I like the action as low as possible without any nasty chokes or buzzes. I've just bought a new Les Paul so it will be interesting how much is "left on the bone" from factory settings.


----------



## Vmodder

I've found that my Lp's also need some relief in the neck to get a good low, buzz free action.


----------



## KISS NATION

Thanks for the help guys. I have thought for a while that something doesn't quite feel right. it wasn't until I replaced my strings the other day when I noticed how high the strings were.


----------



## TwinACStacks

Plus, if you REALLY want to play around with it, a lot of the Buzz you can hear with it unplugged cannot be heard with it plugged in. The check for TOO Low is bending a string up past the 12th fret. If it doesn't choke out, even though you may hear buzz, with it unplugged, you are good to go.

Lower away.

 TWIN


----------



## TwinACStacks

mickeydg5 said:


> An inch is 25.4mm.



 So I'm taking it is if your action is 25.4mm, then you are set a Tad high?

Just throw on some 15 Gauge Strings and SRV would be proud....

 TWIN


----------



## TwinACStacks

double post

 TWIN


----------



## TwinACStacks

Vmodder said:


> I've found that my Lp's also need some relief in the neck to get a good low, buzz free action.



 .010 at the 9th fret holding the string down at the 1st and 14th frets. According to Gibson Manual. Fender says @ 7th and 1st and 15th.

 TWIN


----------



## mickeydg5

TwinACStacks said:


> So I'm taking it is if your action is 25.4mm, then you are set a Tad high?
> 
> Just throw on some 15 Gauge Strings and SRV would be proud....
> 
> TWIN


 
Nah man, 25.4 action is for when I use wire rope and tune down 18 steps.


----------



## mickeydg5

All this sounds like SHREDDER talk.


----------



## Vmodder

TwinACStacks said:


> .010 at the 9th fret holding the string down at the 1st and 14th frets. According to Gibson Manual. Fender says @ 7th and 1st and 15th.
> 
> TWIN


That's a good baseline to go by. Here in the NW I have to check/adjust my necks twice a year. You are also correct about hearing the buzzing unplugged better. 
The best gear investment I have done was to get a basic setup kit from Stew-Mac. Big time saver when you have a lot of guitars....
STEWMAC.COM : Basic Setup Kit


----------



## KISS NATION

That seems like a good thing to buy. I don't think it would be currently worth it for the replica guitars I have though. but when the day comes that I can afford a real les paul and a real fender strat, that will be one of the things on my shopping list.
a friend also suggested I buy a gibson and fender tool kit, which would be nice but I already have all the tools I need to adjust everything on both guitars.


----------



## Vmodder

If you ever start modding or building guitars it is almost a must. They come in metric too you know.


----------



## Nudge68

Knowing how to setup a guitar is just as important as knowing how to restring and tune it

Get a capo, feeler gauge and mm ruler and you're good to go.

Start with factory specs, then tweak from there. None of my guitars are setup exactly the same. I go for a trade off between feel, string gauge, buss and intonation. 

Go to Stewmac for the tools and you'll never look back  Oh, being patient help as it can take DAYS get get the setup you feel is juuuuust right.

Cheers,

Matt


----------



## KISS NATION

I have never felt the need to change my guitar from it's factory set up.
most people might think they can make a difference by tweaking string and pick up height, but my guitars have everything set up as they were when they left the factory and that is just fine for me.
I'm not sure I would ever like to modify or build my own guitar. not that I couldn't of course, building it would be fine, but the electrics might be a little beyond me. I'm not very good when it comes to soldering electrics.


----------



## TwinACStacks

Vmodder said:


> That's a good baseline to go by. Here in the NW I have to check/adjust my necks twice a year. You are also correct about hearing the buzzing unplugged better.
> The best gear investment I have done was to get a basic setup kit from Stew-Mac. Big time saver when you have a lot of guitars....
> STEWMAC.COM : Basic Setup Kit



 I use an Automotive Feeler Gauge set for checking relief, My Luthier for my Nut heights and Fretwork, and corresponding size NEW DRILL BITS (Shank end) for String and Pickup heights. Works like a champ....

 TWIN


----------



## KISS NATION

TwinACStacks said:


> I use an Automotive Feeler Gauge set for checking relief, My Luthier for my Nut heights and Fretwork, and corresponding size DRILL BITS (Shank end) for String and Pickup heights. Works like a champ....
> 
> TWIN



you must know your luthier very well if you let him check your nut height.


----------



## TwinACStacks

We're _*this*_ close.

Don't worry. I'm not going to tell you about nutslots....

 TWIN


----------



## Wycked Lester

these here Stewart MacDonald string height guages are the cats ass for adjusting the actions,... they come in metric and regular ole usa.. Highly Recommend.


----------



## RussBert

diesect20022000 said:


> my SG's set at .6mm to .4 but it needs a slight adjustment. i keep mine LOW generaly .4mm low e (fret board to bottom of the string without fretting anything) but they have to have perfect frets for it. all of mine are in the .4-.6mm territory though depending on when i set them up. the SG is due.




Are your numbers right? Is that a typo?

That's around 1/64" is real speak (.016" to .024") and when you fret at the first fret...your string height drops even more!


----------



## Vinsanitizer

*Adjust the truss rod first, then:

E = 5/64 @ 12th fret
e = 4/64 @ 12th fret

Thou shalt find thy satisfaction inst the fulfillment thereof.


----------



## Roadburn

Wycked Lester said:


> these here Stewart MacDonald string height guages are the cats ass for adjusting the actions,... they come in metric and regular ole usa.. Highly Recommend.





Thanks Wycked.

That is a usefull piece of kit. Not just for guitars.
Must get me one, pronto!


----------



## Stringjunkie

They are very helpful. I have the standard and metric versions


----------



## Wycked Lester

with that and a magnifying glass you can dial one in to any detail you'd like. And after you do each string your string radius will match the neck radius perfectly.......mmmmm yummy.


----------



## Nudge68

Wycked Lester said:


> these here Stewart MacDonald string height guages are the cats ass for adjusting the actions,... they come in metric and regular ole usa.. Highly Recommend.



I use the metric ruler. 

Yes, with ageing eyesight, magnifying glasses are a must!

Cheers,

Matt.


----------



## guitarbilly74

KISS NATION said:


> can anyone tell me a reasonable string height for a Les Paul?
> I found a guide that says the strings at the 12th fret should be 1.2mm on the high E and 2mm on the low E, currently my strings are 3.5mm on the high E and 3mm on the low E.
> I know there is no such thing as a correct string height, but mine does feel a little on the high side.
> would it be a good idea to lower the strings according to the guide I have found, or is there a better guide for string height?


there is no such thing as a reasonable string height for any guitar, it's really whatever is comfortable to you. The only limitation is you can only go so low before it starts to buzz and so high before the bridge comes off completely  But with that aside, set it any way you like it. If you feel your action is a bit high, just lower it until you are comfortable with it.


----------



## burke

Most factory setting blow, and do not bring out the true potential of the guitar. Take it to a good luthier and have them listen to how you want it (harder than you think). This will be the best thing and you will be thrilled with the results. However, finding a good luthier is an art in itself.

My LP came with a horrible nut and un-level frets, the "Plek" system is only as good as the person running it, so there will be variation. 

After another few bucks you will like this guitar.


----------



## Vinsanitizer

All my electrics get:

E: 5/64
A: 4.5/64
D: 4/64
G: 4/64
B: 4/64
E: 4/64

Acoustic guitars:
Same thing except:
7/64 low-E to 5/64 high-E

In my experience, after a setup new guitars will change as the wood acclimates. I check & reset them up often for about the first year. If they don't settle in (stabilize) by then, I usually boot them. All guitars require periodic adjustments with age and atmospheric changes. But a guitar that never finds "home" is a constant PITA.

The truss rods get set to .010" at the 8th fret on the high-E. I measure the high-E because oftentimes, especially with Gibsons, you get a wider gap with the low-E. If the gap is double or more than the high-E, I'll reject the guitar, as the feel is no longer accurate enough for me and often indicates the notorious rise in the 12th - 17th fret area.


----------

